For lunch, Mel and I decided it was about time we tried one of Memphis's iconic Soul Burgers at the quintessential dive bar — Earnestine and Hazel's.
It really was very good. Not like the gourmet burgers that most of the upscale restaurants offer up these days, it's more like an old fashioned, regular sized, (you can actually put it in your mouth), juicy cheese burger that was topped with grilled onions and oozing the correct combination of grease and meat juices, served on a warm toasted bun. The Soul Burger reminded me of the burger's my big brother and I once enjoyed at Spott's Drug Store and Soda Fountain in West Memphis.
A little different than what we encountered in Felicia Suzanne's kitchen.
Hicks, the fellow who was grilling our burgers, was quite an outgoing and approachable guy. He asked if we had ever been to Earnestines and Hazel's and told us to walk around and check it out.
We did... this is a pic from one of the rooms upstairs. You can see why many movies have been shot here. This is funk you can't fake. This funk is real. This is Memphis Milieu with a capital M.
Lonely Planet review for Earnestine & Hazel's
One of the great dive bars has a 2nd floor full of rusty bedsprings and claw-foot tubs, remnants of its brothel past. Climb the creaky stairs to shoot the breeze with Nate, a courtly gentleman who regales you with tales of Memphis past as he pours you a Miller Lite – he works the upstairs bar on weekends. The Soul Burger, the bar's only food, is the stuff of legend. Watch out for ghosts. Things heat up after midnight.
So to finish off our day of culinary adventure we caught a trolley uptown to the restaurant "Flight" where we dined with our long time friends Deanna and Clayton, aka—Crew Tivoli. They've just returned from a Fall Color Cruise on the Tennessee River. We enjoyed hearing the tales of their trip and their company as well.
Well, that's about it for now, still enjoying being urbanites... thanks again for checking on us.
Oh yeah, some of you have probably noticed we've changed the look of this blog. The thinking is simple's good, so simple it is. More changes coming...